We have red wasps in our cabin. We have sealed every place we can find and we still have red wasps in the living area. We have had the cabin sprayed three times and it didn’t stop them at all. I need someone or something to take care of our problem or at least tell us how we can solve our wasp problem. Thanks!

To start, I suggest you read our wasp control article. This will explain what’s happening so you’ll understand better what type of treatments are needed, the best products to use, etc.

Wasp Control:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

As you’ll learn, these wasps are using your cabin to overwinter. And since most every structure will have many points of entry, letting them overwinter on the structure means you’ll no doubt be seeing some inside the cabin during the winter since they’ll naturally be attracted to the warmth inside.

Now can you ever effectively “seal” them out? Unfortunately no. At least not from our experience or from what we’re hearing from professional companies, other businesses and homeowners. No doubt lots of people have tried but by design, most every structure (including log cabins) are built to “breath”. This design is inherent to allowing pests like wasps access to the inside areas which means any pest that uses structures to hibernate will inevitably end up inside too. So don’t feel your attempt at sealing them out failed; it was most likely not going to work anyway.

But what will work is the use of Drione and Cypermethrin applied to the outside of the structure as our article explains. In fact, dusting with Drione every spring and fall is usually all one would need to do to keep wasps away. It’s all I do around my home and it’s done the job repelling wasps, bees, roaches, ants, crickets, stinkbugs and ladybugs.

Now using a Dustick will make the treatment easy to do from the ground and if you get some Drione up into every crack and crevice on every side of the cabin, overhangs, window frames, door frames, etc., you’ll effectively take away all their secret nest sites as well as their route of entry. In the end, this is what you must do to get rid of them.

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Dustick:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustick

Now even though it’s most likely still winter where you reside, dusting now would provide immediate relief from the problem. So to start, either hire a company to dust your home or get the products from us and do the work yourself. With our “how to” training video’s, you should be able to do the work effectively which will no doubt cost a lot less compared to hiring a service company. Plus, getting a company to treat as thoroughly as is needed can be very expensive.

Now for this first year of treating, you’ll need to dust again in the spring, around April or May, to get the cabin protected for the summer. And then dust one more time this September/October to make sure they don’t come back to hibernate for next winter.

Lastly, one day after the spring and fall dusting, you should spray the siding and overhangs with Cypermethrin using any standard Pump Sprayer. Be sure to apply at least 3-4 gallons of mixed material during these treatments. This way you’ll know you used enough.

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Eliminator: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer

So for this year, dusting 3 times and spraying at least twice will be the course of action that will get your cabin wasp free and keep it wasp free next winter. And if you follow this treatment schedule for 2013, for 2014 all you’ll need to do is dust in the spring and fall to maintain this level of control. In other words, you won’t have to keep spraying; just dusting will do the job. Good luck!