I keep an I/O under a covered dock that has this exact problem. The daubers love going through the vent holes and nesting inside my motor compartment. I first tried installing some PEST STRIPS which no doubt stopped them. But because the boat is kept open with no cover on it, the strips evaporated too quick. Inside of 2 weeks they were gone. Since your boat is covered with a tarp, I would think the strips would last longer and if you got 1 month or more of protection from them, this would prove to be an efficient way to stop them. The Pest Strips release slowly and insects don't like the scent so they'll stay away where the odor is present. Wasps and bees are particularly sensitive to it so they won't linger therefore they you won't be killing them.

Since the strips didn't work for me, I went to an aerosol called PHANTOM. It's odorless, goes on dry (which was very important because I didn't want to mark up my boat deck) and treatments seem to last about 3-4 weeks. The Phantom stopped the wasps as well as the spider problem I have. But it will kill them so I don't think you'll want to use this option.

For nothing but repelling pests like wasps, another option would be the NBS. It's a liquid that can be used as a paint or stain additive but can also be used as a spray. Just mix it with water and spray down the motor housing. Is there a chance it will discolor the housing? Sure. I say this just to insure you try treating a test spot first before you treat the entire housing. We've been selling this product for years with people applying it to their homes and during this time we've not had one complaint of it affecting the paint or any other finish they've treated. But I can't say I know of anyone using it on an outboard motor housing which is why I suggest testing it first.

A third option would be to set up an AEROSOL MACHINE with some KONK in it. If you place this machine up under the tarp and program it to release every 15 minutes, I'm sure it will deter and not kill them. Konk contains Pyrethrin and is an excellent repellent. Unfortunately it doesn't last which is why you need the machine. The machine is easy to deploy and can be programmed to work around the clock. And a can can last 30-60 days so it's cost effective. I'm sure because you'd be using it up under a tarp the release of pyrethrin could be directed where the wasps want to nest so they'll have no choice but to leave and stay away.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Pest Strips:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/fumigant/hotshot-no-pest-strip

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000

Konk:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/konk-974-py-6-5-oz

We get this question quite a bit. Fortunately there are a lot of options and none of them will hurt or damage your plants.

You see, years ago when the first generation of home and garden pesticides came to market, they were highly concentrated and contained solvents that were many times damaging to the plants being treated. These highly concentrated active ingredients would many times burn or damage the treated plant (which is why so many people think insecticides will kill plants). Actives like Malathion, Diazinon and liquid Sevin would in fact do harm to most any potted plant when used like you want to use. Not only that, but their nasty odor would linger for many, many days. Fortunately a lot has changed.

Today we have actives that are a lot less concentrated (instead of 40-60% active ingredient, 5-20% are the norm). Additionally they have solvents which don't cause side affects like burning the leaves of a treated plant or hurting the plants root system  These actives are first tested to make sure they won't hurt the plants they're intended to be sprayed on so that by the time they come to market, there will be directions indicating what if any plants are sensitive to it's use along with any other important treating guidelines.

So for your problem, the good news is there are plenty of options that can be utilized. And the treatment is actually quite easy. Basically all you have to do is mix one of these products with water and apply it like you would with a watering can. In other words, you don't have to spray the plant but instead just water it into the plants soil. We have several products that will work on wasps and can be used in your potted plants, but here are two that we know very well.

The first is the CYPERMETHRIN mentioned in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE. It not only will kill any nesting in the soil, but it's repellent action will also keep new ones from coming around. Mix it at the rate of 1/2 oz per gallon and it will only take 32-64 oz of the mixed spray to do the job.

Alternatively, you can use an organic product like MULTIPURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Use it the same way as the Cypermethrin. Once it filters through the soil and finds the wasps nest, it will both kill any alive in the nest and continue to work for a day or two. Since it won't last long like the Cypermethrin, you will have to treat again in two days if you continue to see activity. This is because the organic actives just don't last long like the more traditional products. But in the end, it can get you the same result.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Multipurpose Insect Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

You'll need to upgrade to the professional strength products we have featured in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE if you want to get kill the ones that are there right now and keep new ones away for any length of time. The product you  mentioned is a "ready to use" type of spray and not designed nor capable of lasting long so it won't leave a residual that's strong enough. Additionally, there are some species of wasps that it just won't kill quick enough which can lead to bad results.

To avoid these issues, get some of the CYPERMETHRIN you'll see listed in our article. It's very strong and wasps simply don't like it. They'll avoid treated surfaces and treatments can last 3-6 weeks.

Additionally, if you see them entering cracks and/or crevices where there might be a space they're using for nests, get some of the DRIONE DUST and puff it into these spaces. It's very active on all wasps and bees and will no doubt work the best for these locations.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

My plants are outside for the summer so I'm not having an issue with them right now but I do know that when I bring them inside it will be a problem. They are established (they were there last year but I hadn't realized that they were in my plants vs getting in from outside.) Prior to taking the plants out this spring I had a lot of them flying around my house.

I can see a bunch of holes in some of the plants but I don't see many of them around.

What can I use that wont kill my plants? They seam to like my Christmas cactus's the most. I thought of re-potting them but I'm afraid it will make them really mad if they are in the dirt. Thanks!

In fact none of the products we'd recommend for treating potted plants would affect the plant themselves. Here's why. The term "pesticide" includes a wide range of products which are sub-categorized into groups that target specific types of life. Some of these categories are "insecticides", "herbicides", "fungicides", etc. Insecticides target insects; herbicides target plants and so on. So in general most insecticides will not harm or injure plant life; they're designed to only target insects. To directly affect a plant, you'd need to use a herbicide. But like any good "medicine", there can be a "side affect" that could injure non target life.

As you know, side affects from medicines can sometimes be dangerous. Well, plants too can sometimes be adversely affected by the emulsifier or some other component of the concentrate which could affect the plants growth or cause it to burn should you spray the plant leaves. For this reason some insecticides will say "not for use on plants or other vegetation". And yet other formulations will be created with the sole intent of focusing their use on plants so they're made with the plants safety in mind. And these are the products I'd recommend (and in fact use myself).

It just so happens I too keep lots of potted plants around my home. Invariably they'll get wasps or ants living in them (others too but these are the most popular insects my pots seem to attract). Once I learn they're living in the pot, I mix up 1/2 oz of CYPERMETHRIN into my watering can (which holds a gallon of water) and simply water my plant. I don't over water; just enough to get some water trickling into the water pan under the pot means you've probably added enough. And within 2-3 days the problem is gone.

Another "less toxic" option would be the organic concentrate known as MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Use it the same way but instead add 5 oz per gallon of water. It won't last nearly as long as the Cypermethrin (it's only active for a few days compared to several weeks with the Cypermethrin) but it will ultimately get any wasp or ant living in the pot.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

This is an easy one. Get some of the CYPERMETHRIN featured in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE and spray where the nests are located. This treatment will both kill what's there and prevent future nests from forming.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Wasp Control:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

We have wasps on our front lawn.  Not sure what they are doing,  getting water, food, etc?  They didn't do this last year.  In average at one time,  there may be 10 or so in various parts of the yard.  I have been very vigilant this year and have been watching for nests and getting rid of them.  What can I do to get them off the yard and why are they there?  Thank you.

Wasps forage in lawns for many reasons. In general we can be specific about what they're doing when we know the species involved. But when one describes the pest as a "wasp", that puts it in a category of hundreds and some of these go to lawns for different reasons. Here's the short list:

Water. If you water the lawn, it will no doubt attract all kinds of insects including wasps. But in general most any kind of turf will attract, collect and hold water over night even if you didn't water which in turn will attract many kinds of insect pests.

Food. Wasp food can be in the form of a particular insect. These could be dead or alive depending on the species. Untreated turf will harbor and host a long list of potential wasp food. Long story short; they could be foraging in your lawn for food.

Nesting material. Many wasps use organic matter to make their nests. In some instances, they'll find this raw material in the yard and when available, they're readily harvest it all season long to build and maintain their nests.

Ground nests. Some wasps live in the ground. In fact, the biggest segment of wasps are ground dwelling so maybe there are nests present in your turf and what you're seeing are it's occupants coming and going throughout the day.

These would be the more common reasons wasps would be active in your yard but the list is longer. The bottom line is most people don't want them around and if you're looking to repel them, there are two good products that will do the job. As explained in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE, wasps can be repelled by spraying either CYPERMETHRIN or NBS REPELLENT. Both products should be applied over the area you're wanting to keep wasp free. Use either product at the rate of 1 gallon of finished product per 500 sq/ft of grass. The treatment should last 2-3 weeks  but treat more frequently if needed.

One special note; if you find the wasps are more concentrated and a bit stubborn not wanting to leave a certain area of the lawn, you might very well have some nests that will require a bit more treatment. Do this by concentrating your effort. Instead of dispersing a finished gallon over 500 sq/ft, instead use the entire gallon in just 100 sq/ft. This will make it harder if not impossible for them to use the treated area and usually after 1-2 applications, they'll either die or leave for good.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Actually there is quite a lot you can do. If you read through our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn we have 2-3 sprays that do a great job of both repelling and killing wasps. Typically they'll avoid anything sprayed with the CYPERMETHRIN or NBS INSECT REPELLENT and I would suggest either to start. Later on if you find them nesting in between wood joints which are hard to spray, a dusting with some DRIONE will keep them away for months.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS Repellent:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Commonly black, gold, orange or multi colored, this pest is commonly known as a Digger Wasp. They'll prey upon local insects and after paralyzing them, the subdued prey is brought back to the nest which is commonly found in grass, mulch or other turf areas around the home. Once in the nest, the prey insect will become food for the digger wasps young. The young will hatch from eggs which are laid on the prey insect deep inside the ground secured nest. Nests will contain 3-6 eggs and female digger wasps will farm several nests at one time.

If left to do as they please, digger wasp infestations will rapidly increase in size. Since they typically focus on similar areas as where they themselves were bred, 1-2 nests can become 5-10 and then 50-100 if left untreated for a few years. Additionally, adults will overwinter (hibernate) in the nest and the following year they'll pick right up where they left off when retiring the previous fall.

Controlling digger wasps involves saturating the turf where nests are concentrated. Instead of trying to treat each of their nests directly, it's best to use a "shotgun" approach and simply saturate the area. At the rate of 1 gallon per 100 sq/ft, CYPERMETHRIN will usually do the job. Use a regular PUMP SPRAYER or even a HOSE END SPRAYER to apply the material and be thorough. Active adults will die out the following week as they trek through the treated foilage but it can take 1-2 months for all of the nest inhabitants to die. This is because each nest can have developing pupae which is a stage of wasp the treatment will not kill. To insure all stages are controlled, it's important to treat at least every 2 weeks for at least 2 months. So to expect long term control, you should expect to expect to make at least 4 applications and even more if warranted.

For organic gardeners, the BUG PATROL RTS spray is certified organic and though it works on a wide range of pests, it will require more frequent application to get the job done because it really doesn't have much of a residual. Expect to use it weekly for two months and after that, periodically to insure the problem doesn't return.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Sprayers:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/good/pump-sprayers

Bug Patrol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/bug-patrol-32-oz-rts

please reply,

thanks, Glenn

I believe you mean PERMETHRIN 10? If so, it should help. In our experience wasps are generally repelled by synthetic pyrethroids like Permethrin. That being said, in our experience we have found the CYPERMETHRIN to be about the best. It seems to last 2-3 times as long as the Permethrin so don't be too disappointed if the wasps return in 7-14 days compared to the Cypermethrin which can last a month or more.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/permethrin-10

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

DRIONE would be a great choice. Use a CENTRO HAND DUSTER for areas you can reach; the DUSTICK will enable you to treat any high areas.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Centro Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/centrobulb-14-oz-w12-ext

Dustick:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustick