We get this question quite a bit. Fortunately there are a lot of options and none of them will hurt or damage your plants.

You see, years ago when the first generation of home and garden pesticides came to market, they were highly concentrated and contained solvents that were many times damaging to the plants being treated. These highly concentrated active ingredients would many times burn or damage the treated plant (which is why so many people think insecticides will kill plants). Actives like Malathion, Diazinon and liquid Sevin would in fact do harm to most any potted plant when used like you want to use. Not only that, but their nasty odor would linger for many, many days. Fortunately a lot has changed.

Today we have actives that are a lot less concentrated (instead of 40-60% active ingredient, 5-20% are the norm). Additionally they have solvents which don't cause side affects like burning the leaves of a treated plant or hurting the plants root system  These actives are first tested to make sure they won't hurt the plants they're intended to be sprayed on so that by the time they come to market, there will be directions indicating what if any plants are sensitive to it's use along with any other important treating guidelines.

So for your problem, the good news is there are plenty of options that can be utilized. And the treatment is actually quite easy. Basically all you have to do is mix one of these products with water and apply it like you would with a watering can. In other words, you don't have to spray the plant but instead just water it into the plants soil. We have several products that will work on wasps and can be used in your potted plants, but here are two that we know very well.

The first is the CYPERMETHRIN mentioned in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE. It not only will kill any nesting in the soil, but it's repellent action will also keep new ones from coming around. Mix it at the rate of 1/2 oz per gallon and it will only take 32-64 oz of the mixed spray to do the job.

Alternatively, you can use an organic product like MULTIPURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Use it the same way as the Cypermethrin. Once it filters through the soil and finds the wasps nest, it will both kill any alive in the nest and continue to work for a day or two. Since it won't last long like the Cypermethrin, you will have to treat again in two days if you continue to see activity. This is because the organic actives just don't last long like the more traditional products. But in the end, it can get you the same result.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Multipurpose Insect Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

You'll need to upgrade to the professional strength products we have featured in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE if you want to get kill the ones that are there right now and keep new ones away for any length of time. The product you  mentioned is a "ready to use" type of spray and not designed nor capable of lasting long so it won't leave a residual that's strong enough. Additionally, there are some species of wasps that it just won't kill quick enough which can lead to bad results.

To avoid these issues, get some of the CYPERMETHRIN you'll see listed in our article. It's very strong and wasps simply don't like it. They'll avoid treated surfaces and treatments can last 3-6 weeks.

Additionally, if you see them entering cracks and/or crevices where there might be a space they're using for nests, get some of the DRIONE DUST and puff it into these spaces. It's very active on all wasps and bees and will no doubt work the best for these locations.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

This is an easy one. Get some of the CYPERMETHRIN featured in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE and spray where the nests are located. This treatment will both kill what's there and prevent future nests from forming.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Wasp Control:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

We have wasps on our front lawn.  Not sure what they are doing,  getting water, food, etc?  They didn't do this last year.  In average at one time,  there may be 10 or so in various parts of the yard.  I have been very vigilant this year and have been watching for nests and getting rid of them.  What can I do to get them off the yard and why are they there?  Thank you.

Wasps forage in lawns for many reasons. In general we can be specific about what they're doing when we know the species involved. But when one describes the pest as a "wasp", that puts it in a category of hundreds and some of these go to lawns for different reasons. Here's the short list:

Water. If you water the lawn, it will no doubt attract all kinds of insects including wasps. But in general most any kind of turf will attract, collect and hold water over night even if you didn't water which in turn will attract many kinds of insect pests.

Food. Wasp food can be in the form of a particular insect. These could be dead or alive depending on the species. Untreated turf will harbor and host a long list of potential wasp food. Long story short; they could be foraging in your lawn for food.

Nesting material. Many wasps use organic matter to make their nests. In some instances, they'll find this raw material in the yard and when available, they're readily harvest it all season long to build and maintain their nests.

Ground nests. Some wasps live in the ground. In fact, the biggest segment of wasps are ground dwelling so maybe there are nests present in your turf and what you're seeing are it's occupants coming and going throughout the day.

These would be the more common reasons wasps would be active in your yard but the list is longer. The bottom line is most people don't want them around and if you're looking to repel them, there are two good products that will do the job. As explained in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE, wasps can be repelled by spraying either CYPERMETHRIN or NBS REPELLENT. Both products should be applied over the area you're wanting to keep wasp free. Use either product at the rate of 1 gallon of finished product per 500 sq/ft of grass. The treatment should last 2-3 weeks  but treat more frequently if needed.

One special note; if you find the wasps are more concentrated and a bit stubborn not wanting to leave a certain area of the lawn, you might very well have some nests that will require a bit more treatment. Do this by concentrating your effort. Instead of dispersing a finished gallon over 500 sq/ft, instead use the entire gallon in just 100 sq/ft. This will make it harder if not impossible for them to use the treated area and usually after 1-2 applications, they'll either die or leave for good.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Actually there is quite a lot you can do. If you read through our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn we have 2-3 sprays that do a great job of both repelling and killing wasps. Typically they'll avoid anything sprayed with the CYPERMETHRIN or NBS INSECT REPELLENT and I would suggest either to start. Later on if you find them nesting in between wood joints which are hard to spray, a dusting with some DRIONE will keep them away for months.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

NBS Repellent:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Any of the products we have listed in our DIGGER WASP ARTICLE can be used safely on grass, plants, etc. In case you don't know, the term "pesticide" represents a wide range of products which in fact can be applied to treat many things. For example, fungicides are used to treat plant fungus. Herbicides are used to treat weeds. Insecticides are used to control insects. These are all lumped into the category known as "pesticide".  But just because they're all pesticides it does not mean that a fungicide can kill an insect. In fact most can't. Conversely, insecticides can't kill plants.

In fact, most all insecticides can be applied over plants without undue harm. So in this situation, if you were to broadcast the CYFLUTHRIN GRANULES and then spray over the top with the ESFENVALERATE, you'd soon have control of the digger wasps without ever having to know where they live.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Digger Wasp Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

Cyfluthrin Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/cyfluthrin-granules

Esfenvalerate:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/conquer-esfenvalerate

There are a few things you can do. For starters, you should review our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE which goes over all treatment options that can be employed. As you'll learn, wasps love living up under wood and the more "natural" the wood is, the more they seem to like it. Log siding is about as good as it gets for them so it's no surprise you see them year round. And once they start coming to any structure, they'll leave scents where they forage. These odors aren't detectable by people but they will attract more wasps so expect the current situation to get worse until it's treated. So just what treatments should you do?

On the outside, a thorough spraying with either CYPERMETHRIN or NBS INSECT REPELLENT will keep them away from the structure year round. The rule of thumb here is to spray as needed so I expect you'll need to treat monthly to start and then decrease the frequency as the wasp traffic drops off. NBS can be added to paint or stain and as explained on it's product page, will last a year or so which is a nice benefit when used this way. You can also spray it as needed to supplement places where wasps persist should the problem persist.

Additionally, a good dusting right now would no doubt really do wonders. Using a DUSTICK and some DRIONE, if you went around the home and dusted up under all the siding you would have a huge impact on the ones currently hibernating. In general it would be wise to dust at least once every fall so wasps in your region won't be able to crawl up under the siding and hibernate on your home every fall. Initially I'd recommend dusting every spring and fall till their gone for good since you no doubt have a good population using the home already. This current population need to be killed or repelled right away to provide immediate results. For the long term, dusting 1-2 a year will keep them away and should actually work so well you won't have to spray at all.

Lastly, you could opt to use the Drione inside if you know where they're entering. Some homes have clear cracks and gaps where pests enter and this would be a starting point you can dust. If you find it hard to apply Drione to these areas, go with PHANTOM AEROSOL. It can be used on the Dustick if you get the DUSTICK KIT which includes an attachment for aerosol cans. Phantom is practically odorless and highly effective on wasps so it's well suited for use on pests which are semi dormant and hibernating right now.

In summary, you'll need to be resilient and follow the program if you wish to keep these guys out for good. In fact there probably isn't any real "nest" to speak of but wasps love using homes when it gets cold and once they have any one house marked and scented, they'll return year after year like you're experincing now. Spray the outside every spring and fall to keep this activity from happening. But to get immediate results, you'll need to deal with the wasps hiding in all the cracks and crevices of the home and that will mean using either the Dust or Phantom.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Wasp Control:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page154.html

NBS:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Dustick:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/long-reaching-dusters/dustick

Drione:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page31.html

Phantom:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html

If you read through our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn they commonly do this without forming or creating a nest. I suspect this is exactly what you have happening at your lodge each year. I say this because if they were forming or building nests, you'd have activity all spring and summer and most likely during the winter as well. That's the good news. The bad news is that local wasps in your region clearly overwinter or hibernate and at this point have marked your lodge as a great place to spend the winter. That means this trend will continue and no doubt get worse until you take a pro active approach and start stopping them from entering.

Though setting off TOTAL RELEASE AEROSOLS may kill some, no doubt there are a lot of wasps these treatments will miss. Additionally, more wasps can enter at will as long as the outside of the lodge isn't treated and protected. If you want better long term results, spray the outside of the lodge with CYPERMETHRIN as explained in our online article. This product is both easy to apply and highly effective on flying pests like wasps. It will not only kill any that attempt to enter but it will also repel them and other perimeter invaders that like to overwinter or hibernate on buildings.

Inside the lodge you can continue using Total Release Aerosols if you prefer but remember much of what they release is wasted. These products tend to spew chemical all over everything and in the long run aren't the best option to employ. No doubt some crack and crevice treatments with PT PHANTOM would prove to last a lot longer and affect a lot more wasps over time. Since it's mode of action is slow and deliberate, Phantom tends to affect "grouping up" pests like wasps or other insects which are coming inside to avoid the winter season because these pests like to gather in tight groups when hiding. This enables Phantom to infiltrate and kill so many more you cannot see so in the end, the net result is much better control.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Total Release Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/indoor_insect_fogger.html

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page154.html

PT Phantom:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html

Any advice would be TOTALLY appreciated!!!

BTW, I love your web site!  It is the most informative that I have read.  Oh, do you have any products to get rid of white flies?

Looking forward to hearing back from you!

D.O. – Fort Worth, TX

Though the DRIONE DUST is well designed for tight spaces like those found under siding, in soffits and around window frames, it's not the best option when trying to cover large open areas. It tends to drift with no control in such areas, it doesn't do a good job of covering all surfaces in open spaces and it won't last long. For this reason I would say use it only on house siding, soffits, roof lines and wall voids as listed in our WASP CONTROL ARTICLE.

But what I would recommend here would be the liquid CYPERMETHRIN. In fact, treating all plants and surfaces where you see any wasp or bee activity will do two things: first it will kill any nests it hits but second, it will both kill and repel any pests that land on the treatment. Since we know anything nesting will not want to willingly leave, the residents of the nest will likely walk or land on treated plant surfaces (even if you don't treat the nest directly) and in the end, meet their demise within a few days following your application. So you would expect to see immediate results in all areas except where there is the chance of a nest being present; in this area it will take a little longer for the Cypermethrin to work it's magic. Give it a week and in all likelihood the nest will be shut down and all activity will cease.

My second recommendation is that if you do this throughout the warm season, maybe 2-4 times a year, you'll not only be preventing new activity from these unwanted pests but most likely you'll be killing off nests you cannot see.  I actually use a BACKPACK MIST BLOWER in my yard throughout the year to administer my MOSQUITO CONTROL products and because I'm treating 1-2 a month, it actually keeps all other pests away like wasps and bees. You wouldn't need to use anything so elaborate to apply the Cypermethrin; a simple PUMP SPRAYER will do the job. But the Cypermethrin is highly active and repellent making it ideal for the areas you want to treat and the main pests you are targeting. Use it around and on the home and I'm sure you'll see great results.

And to answer your second question; if you read through our WHITEFLY CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see some great products recommended that can control both inside and outside infestations. Lastly, if you have any questions or concerns, feel free to give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290 during regular business hours and I'm sure we'll be able to answer any questions you might have.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page31.html

Wasp Control Article:  http://www.wasps.net/wasp-and-hornet-control

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page154.html

Back Pack Mist Blower:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page676.html

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-eliminator

Whitefly Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/whiteflies.html